My 814ce will not stay in tune !!

[jdc916]

OK    I'm usually tuned to D#.....just cause my voice sounds better there and all the cool kids are doing a lot of their tunes a half step down now too.

So when I have to capo up to standard tuning, or maybe to the 2nd or 3rd fret, I have to retune the guitar.  And I just dont mean slightly, it's quite a bit off.  And then of course when I remove the capo to go back to D# tuning, of course that has to be retuned as well. It has done this since it was new.

I just had a set up done, and I use a Kyser capo.  And it does this with both old and new strings.
I see guitarists capo on and off all the time and never retune, at least not as much as i have to anyways.

Anyone else have this kind of problem ?

[jjrpilot-admin]

What is the action like on the guitar?

[DennisG]

It's possible you may have mentioned the cause of the problem in your post:  the Kyser capo.  They are notorious for over-squeezing the strings, causing them to be pulled sharp.

So, I would ask you this:  when you barre an F-shape chord (without the capo on), does the guitar go out of tune?  If not, the problem is likely the Kyser, since your barre finger acts as an organic capo.

If you have a copy of the latest Acoustic Guitar magazine, I wrote a review of the G7 Performance 2 capo, which addresses this over-squeezing issue by allowing you to easily set the clamping pressure just as you intuitively would when barre-ing an F chord.  You might want to go to your dealer and see if they'll let you play around with a G7 Performance 2 which, by the way, is 25% lighter and slimmer than the original Performance capo.

[michaelw]

i would check to verify the tuning machine bushings (10mm) &
tuner button screws are snug, the string windings are tight on
the posts, the string ball ends are seated on the bridge plate,
that the strings are not binding in the nut slots (pinging) &
that the neck relief is minimal (factory specs are .004-.007"s)
http://www.ramzmusic.com/misc/taylordocs/Bronze%20CS%20Specs%20Sheet%20PDF%20RE001_635259331089301105.pdf

i've used a shubb (original), which did not apply enough pressure
on the 1st fret of a rainsong WS1000 & G7th (original), but when
i needed to do near instant changes, went with the dunlop trigger

the performance 2s have dropped
considerably in $ since the orginal -
i may need to get me one of these
http://www.g7th.com/performance-8.aspx

[zeebow]

i would check to verify the tuning machine bushings (10mm) &
tuner button screws are snug, the string windings are tight on
the posts, the string ball ends are seated on the bridge plate,
that the strings are not binding in the nut slots (pinging) &
that the neck relief is minimal (factory specs are .004-.007"s)
http://www.ramzmusic.com/misc/taylordocs/Bronze%20CS%20Specs%20Sheet%20PDF%20RE001_635259331089301105.pdf

i've used a shubb (original), which did not apply enough pressure
on the 1st fret of a rainsong WS1000 & G7th (original), but when
i needed to do near instant changes, went with the dunlop trigger

the performance 2s have dropped
considerably in $ since the orginal -
i may need to get me one of these
http://www.g7th.com/performance-8.aspx

michael...so funny, when you mentioned g7th, i immediately thought i should write you to let you know there was a blue one that could match your blue maple taylor lol

i have thought about getting one as well (i have the silver one)

to the OP, others have already mentioned it but i'll add my .02

• capo squeezing strings
• strings not strung correctly, taylor has a video on how to do it - you should have 2-3 wraps on the tuner lug (i was doing it wrong for years)

i have 3 taylors and never had an issue with staying in tune. they are usually within 1/2 step, even on my guitars with alternate turnings after a lot of playing

i have taylors with the standard taylor and the gotoh, the gotoh seems to do a better job keeping it in tune

i use my g7th capo all the time and the tuning are never changed

hope that helps

[Gordo in OZ]

If you are only using the capo in the first 3 or 4 frets, the problem is probably either the capo or the way you are using it. Somebody mentioned G7th capos and I would would have to rate those at number 1. You still need to take care putting them on and adjusting and of course it always helps a lot if your tuning is perfect, not close but actually perfect, before you put a capo on. I have a rule that says "never try to tune with a capo on". I break that rule all the time, but its still a very good rule to keep in mind.

[Craig]

I have to agree, I bought a kyser and found that it put a lot of pressure on the strings and pulled them sharp so I went back to the G 7th.
Funnily enough I went to a gig the other night and she had to retune everytime she used the capo. She was using a Kyser on a yamaha guitar.

Craig

[Edward]

1. Kyser capos are no good (and that's being kind).  Yes, IMHO, but I'm offering it.  Too much spring pressure. They are cheap and fast to use ...but they often will pull sharp.  Toss it.
2. Planet waves Dual Action offers one-handed trigger use so it's just as fast as the Kyser, but you can adjust the tension.  Tada!!!
3. G7ths are great, love mine, but one-handed use is tough, if not impractical.
4. Make sure you are using the capo just barely behind the fret.  If not, any capo will have the potential of pulling strings sharp.
5. And yes, if action is on the high (or higher) side, this will most certainly affect tuning when you capo, even if capo'd properly.
6. Also, each capo will have a slightly different radius which will, or will not, match the radius of your fretboard.  A gross mis-match of these radii will require that you crank up the tension to get some strings to ring true, which will then pull the other strings sharp.  Proper radius match is important.  FWIW, I've found the Planet Waves match my Taylors fine!

Edward

[timfitz63]

Well, I guess I'm going to be the voice of dissention where Kyser capos are concerned.  I have a couple of them (one for 6-string, one for 12-string) and I've never had any problems like are being described by the OP.  They seem to work just fine to me; put it on, play, take it off play -- no re-tuning required.

[Sprintbob]

I recently got two Elliott capos, pricier than many will pay but very precise, elegant, and user friendly. I'd rank the G7 2nd (I have one), and the Planet Waves 3rd (have a bunch of these). All of these capos work well for me.

[floyd80]

1. Kyser capos are no good (and that's being kind). 

+1 on that!

I have a Shubb S1 Capo, and I found it to be perfect

[Jersey tuning]

Fan of the new G7 capo. 

[mgap]

I have been using the Shubb for a long time with no problems at all, and they are easy to use.
I just got a G7 it seems to work fine as well.  Plus it has a cool celtic design on it.
The Kysers that I have do pull the tone sharp.  I have not used them for a few years.

So, after telling you that I would say that your problem is the same as everyone elses. Your capo is the culprit.

[jdc916]

Thanks to all for your responses !

I apologize for not getting back sooner !

I'm out of my regular geographic area till Saturday.....( trust me, I'm out in the middle of nowhere ) but I will look in to a G7 when I get back.

Has anyone tried a Thalia Capo ?

[jjrpilot-admin]

Thanks to all for your responses !

I apologize for not getting back sooner !

I'm out of my regular geographic area till Saturday.....( trust me, I'm out in the middle of nowhere ) but I will look in to a G7 when I get back.

Has anyone tried a Thalia Capo ?

Thalia was nice enough to donate some of their capos to the forum as give away prizes. I wrote a review of them and it can be found under the Accessory section at the top!