Help me choose - 312ce-N vs Academy 12e-N

[CoryB]

Help me out here please.

The 312ce-N has solid sapele sides and back whereas the 12e-N has layered.
The 312ce-N has Tusq nut & saddle and the 12e-N has Nubone/Micarta.
The 312ce-N has a Sitka top vs Lutz top on the 12e-N.
The 312ce-N has a cutaway vs no cutaway on the 12e-N, but...
The 312ce-N has no armrest vs armrest on the 12e-N.
Different electronics (that I won't ever use).
The 312ce-N comes with a hard case vs the 12e-N with a gig bag.

The price difference is $1450.

What am I missing here? I play only at home for my own enjoyment - typically cowboy chord songs so upper neck access isn't a big deal.

I can't find an head-to-head audio comparison between the two and no dealers near me have either in stock so I can't try them out.

Does the 312ce-N sound $1450 better than the 12e-N?

I read somewhere about some Taylor (I think it was the Academy series) attaching the top directly to the front and rear of the guitar without using kerfing (I know those are actually the cut slots, but the term is commonly used to describe the reinforcements that bridge between the sides and top/bottoms.)

Thanks for any real world experiences you can offer.

[woozone]

You just have to hold it and listen to how it sounds and feels.  If you're a beginner you probably won't tell the difference and the Academy would suffice (for now).  But if you plan on decades of playing for yourself and others, I think you'd like the investment that the better quality of wood, construction, etc. that the 300 series brings.

[Earl]

Cory, I gotta agree with Wooz above.  Try both and see if one "speaks to you".  There will be tonal overlap between individual examples of each model, and you cannot truly generalize about one type of spruce top versus another.  The build quality of each will be equally stellar.  I like the bevel on the Academy series.  Back in the day when I started playing (it was uphill both ways  ) an A12 would have been a killer guitar for beginner or intermediate.  We spent far more for much less back then.  You cannot really lose either way.  The 300 will likely retain a higher percentage of its initial value down the road if you ever sell.

If you are staying home, the main advantage to a hard case with the 300 series is easier humidity control for storage.  My guitars leave the house in a Taylor Hard Bag anyway, but the ones that need humidifying live in hard cases.  I have to replenish the dampened sponges in the case about 3X as often in a gig bag versus a hard case.  You can accomplish much the same thing by putting the gig bag into a large dry cleaning plastic bag when it is really dry in your home.  Gig bags do not keep moisture in very well, as the long zipper is very porous (the padding itself does not absorb moisture).

I don't really care about solid versus laminated body wood -- I have fine examples of each type that are quite nice.
 The tops on ALL Taylor guitars are solid wood, and always have been.  Player comfort and shorter scale is what is important to me.  It surely does not hurt if the A12N saves you a pile of money too.  I used to own a 314ce-N and was always intrigued by the A12's that I tried in stores.  The smaller GC body is comfy as is the shorter scale compared to my old 314N.  If you are not going to use the electronics, it might be nice to find one without them and save further, but that could be a tall order.  If you don't use them, they are not in the way.

[CoryB]

Thanks for the replies so far. The problem I have is that no-one around stocks any nylon string Taylors to try and I don't want to order and then return.

Humidity control isn't an issue for me as I have a dedicated humidity and temperature controlled guitar room.

The Sitka vx Lutz isn't a big deal really. My 914ce has a sitka top and my BE 912ce has Lutz and both sound amazing. I prefer the slightly darker appearance of the Sitka, but tonally I can't tell a difference.

I'm not a new player, I'm just new to nylon string guitars. I've been playing on and off since 1973. My interest in the nylon strings is the result of a carpal tunnel surgery gone bad where my median nerve was nicked. That has been repaired but the recovery time is about a year and it's only been three months so far. I'm just thinking that the nylon strings would be easier to play and help build strength back up in my hand.

[Earl]

My 314N was mostly used for hand rehab too.  I played it otherwise, but it was  niche instrument for me.  I bought it mostly because it was a really good deal.  It saw most of its play hours after a hand injury that took some time to heal, rather than any burning desire for nylon tone.  Taylor's nylons are not as "good" as a true classical - they are often described as overbuilt and not very loud.  But it gets you into the nylon string experience via a quality guitar.

When a brain tumor paralyzed my entire left side ten years ago, I got back into playing via ukulele just before discharge from the rehab hospital (after week 5), then into the 314N a bit later, then back into steel strings at lower tuning / reduced tension.  I finally got back to standard tuning as my strength and playing endurance was built up again.  Over time, the dexterity also came back to about 95% of what it was before.  I am truly blessed.  Best of luck with your recovery.

[SDTaylorman]

Thanks for the replies so far. The problem I have is that no-one around stocks any nylon string Taylors to try and I don't want to order and then return.

You may not "want to" but it sounds like you "have to" if you're interested at all in one. Dealers take back guitars all the time. Just make sure you're not going to be hit with a restocking fee and then order one. I see no issues with returns if it doesn't work for you as you had no other way to do it.

[Edward]

Hey Cory,

Ok, so barring the ability to check one out (which is hard, regardless, as so few nylon Taylors are ever on walls that I've seen over many years), let's go through your criteria:

- Cutaway and electronics are a non starters, so no point in paying more for features you will likely not utilize or enjoy.  That said, I think the arm bevel is a comfort feature you will enjoy every time you play the guitar.

- Sitka top will offer a bit more crispness to the top end, the lutz a bit rounder and more mids content.  My personal preference is the latter, especially for a nylon.

- solid vs layered: forget about trying to discern sonic differences via head knowledge here as there simply are too many build variables between these two to make a blanket statement; this and the fact the b/s contribute far less to the guitar's voice than the soundboard.  Arguably the better point to make here is layered is more resistant to weather/humidity changes than is solid-wood b/s.  Fwiw, I have a 210 that is layered b/s and it gives up precious little "tone goodness" vs its more expensive brethren that live on the same wall, so don't get sucked into "solid is always better."

- Hard case is something that some folks value, so that's up to you and your usage.  The Taylor soft bags are excellent, and I've long found gigbags with backpack staps far and away better and more convenient for most all uses that doesn't include equipment vans and airlines.

- That's a hefty price delta, so yes, think hard on whether it is "$1400 better" given the differences.  Given your "for home enjoyment only" purpose, I'd fall on the Academy for its lutz, armrest, and cost combination.  And since you are not a "serious" nylon player and this is more a "gap-fill guitar" if you will, I'd side with the features I'd enjoy more.

- Side note: any idea of whether there is a difference in nut widths between these two?  This is an important factor that can make some guitars feel awkward to some folks, and for nylon I absolutely prefer wider, personally.

Hope that gives you a few things to think about.  Would love to see where you land on this ...chime back in with your win!

Edward

[CoryB]

Thanks to all for the helpful thoughts.

Hey Cory,

- Side note: any idea of whether there is a difference in nut widths between these two?  This is an important factor that can make some guitars feel awkward to some folks, and for nylon I absolutely prefer wider, personally.

Hope that gives you a few things to think about.  Would love to see where you land on this ...chime back in with your win!

Edward

The nut width on both is 1 7/8 so they are equal in that respect.

I did make a decision this morning, primarily based on availability and my infamous, known to everyone in my family, impatience. Checking Sweetwater, GC and Sam Ash, none have a 12-N in stock, and only SW showed a 312ce-n in stock (I've had questionable luck ordering from GC - received a couple of "new" items that obviously weren't, so I only purchase from local stores from them.). SA said 6-7 months before they got any more of either in stock. Special ordering either guitar without electronics is still a 6-8month wait.

So I have the last 312ce-N coming from Sweetwater. It should be here Saturday or Monday.

Now, my luck is that one or more will get an unexpected shipment of exactly what I wanted, but c'est la vie.