String Height

[Saxacat]

I might be opening a can of worms, but here goes.

I sometimes think the action on my Taylor is a bit too high at the 12th fret, but I'm not sure whether it could do with the saddle being lowered or the truss rod adjusted, or both. Of course it could be that it's fine and I need to get used to it.


DSCN0685 by buzzardops, on Flickr


DSCN0686 by buzzardops, on Flickr

[Satsuki]

Does it buzz? If it does then it's too low.

[Saxacat]

No, there's no buzzing. The height seems fine up towards the headstock, it's as I play further towards the body that it seems high.

[dangrunloh]

You should measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.  Here are some numbers I hope are correct For the low E-string:

12th fret = 6/64 or .09375 inches  or 2.38mm

1st fret = 2/64 or .0312 inches or .79375mm  (use feeler gauge)

For high E string

12th fret 4/64 or .0625 inches or 1.56mm

1st fret = 1/64 or .0156 inches or .4125mm

[Saxacat]

Hi dangrunloh, thanks for the reply.

The height seems about right at the 1st fret, but both strings are slighty high at the 12th fret; 2.8mm for the low E and 2.2mm for the high E.

Would that indicate some truss rod adjustment needed?

[BigSkyTaylorPlayer]

No, there's no buzzing. The height seems fine up towards the headstock, it's as I play further towards the body that it seems high.

I have the same exact situation, the action at the 12th fret seems high and mine is the same measure as yours.

I too have been wondering if I just need to get used to it or get it adjusted.

[dangrunloh]

Hi dangrunloh, thanks for the reply.

The height seems about right at the 1st fret, but both strings are slighty high at the 12th fret; 2.8mm for the low E and 2.2mm for the high E.

Would that indicate some truss rod adjustment needed?

Yes it is OK to make small truss rod adjustments to fine tune the action to compensated for string changes, playing style. or seasonal changes.  Keep it small or you will change the neck relief too much.  You can play around with it to see what you like best for your style of play.  It's fairly east to move it up and down a little with the truss rod.

[Go Navy]

I'm pretty ignorant about truss rod issues, but I've always thought that the #1 goal with a truss rod adjustment is to get a dead straight fretboard.  So, if the truss rod is adjusted to change string height, don't you run the risk of having a slightly concave or convex fret board, which would mean that string heights are inconsistent all up and down the scale?

The only reason I have some concern about this is that I once had a guitar which had a slightly concave fretboard, as viewed on the long axis.  It was a bear to play. A good guitar repair man made the truss rod adjustment and got it straight for me.  Night and day.

[Go Navy]

You should measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.  Here are some numbers I hope are correct For the low E-string:

12th fret = 6/64 or .09375 inches  or 2.38mm

1st fret = 2/64 or .0312 inches or .79375mm  (use feeler gauge)

For high E string

12th fret 4/64 or .0625 inches or 1.56mm

1st fret = 1/64 or .0156 inches or .4125mm

This is some of the most useful info I've ever read in this forum......thanks!  I'm going to fire up my digital micrometer this morning!

[dangrunloh]

I'm pretty ignorant about truss rod issues, but I've always thought that the #1 goal with a truss rod adjustment is to get a dead straight fretboard.  So, if the truss rod is adjusted to change string height, don't you run the risk of having a slightly concave or convex fret board, which would mean that string heights are inconsistent all up and down the scale?

The only reason I have some concern about this is that I once had a guitar which had a slightly concave fretboard, as viewed on the long axis.  It was a bear to play. A good guitar repair man made the truss rod adjustment and got it straight for me.  Night and day.

Hi Go Navy. I'm finally getting around to your comment.  Taylor says the amount of bow or neck reflex should be between .004 and .007.  Capo at first fret, press at 14 and measure at a fret in middle.   My 414 will play just fine all the way down to almost no reflex and consider .010 the upper range.  If the neck is in the middle somewhere you can easily raise or lower action a little (maybe 2 or 3/64th) with the truss rod and still have neck relief within acceptable range.

Problems arise if the action is way off and you try to use the truss rod to fix it it. Instead the saddle should be shimmed up to raise it, or sanded on bottom to lower it.

Here is an online primer on guitar setup.

http://thbecker.net/guitar_playing/guitars_and_setup/setup_page_01.html

[Go Navy]

Dangrunioh......that's excellent info and explanation.......thanks. 

[BigSkyTaylorPlayer]

Hi Saxacat, I took my 516 in to ask about the string height (same as yours) and they actually (get it) said it's correct for Taylor.  Then they adjusted the truss rod slightly but that threw off something else, about that time they decided to look at the frets and discovered that some are a little high.  We discussed why that might be (I've kept a damp-it in the guitar and been faithful about checking it even when several days go by without playing) but they said it could be a combination of things and in any case they are going to adjust them.  I'm due to pick it up tomorrow so I'm looking forward to seeing the difference.

They did mention - and I noticed that the string height of Taylors just seem a bit high; to me - I played several different Taylors in the acoustic room and I think it's something I'll just have to get used to.

[Saxacat]

TP516, thanks for the info.

Looks like I'll just have to get used to it. I wasn't too keen on playing around with the truss rod, having no experience. I shouldn't have a humidity problem, as I use the Humidipak system, which seems to work quite well, also the humidity levels in the UK generally aren't too bad (I often leave my Yamaha L series out of its case all day, and I've had that for 3 years without any issues).

Be interested to see what you think of yours when you get it back.

The only other idea I had, was to order a new saddle from Taylor and set it a bit lower than the original, seeing what that does. If it throws up problems I can just put the original back. (I'm waiting for the new Taylor Store to come on-line and see if I can order online from the UK).

If I go down this route I'll let you know how it goes.