Unofficial Taylor Guitar Forum - UTGF
Lessons, Recordings, How Tos, Repair, Accessories => Lessons, Recordings, How Tos, Repair, Accessories => Topic started by: bo1142 on December 10, 2011, 04:35:05 PM
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This is the best video I've seen for a "how to" on string changes.
Enjoy
http://youtu.be/uXEkDR_-D88
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Yes, I noticed Brian Swerdferger (sorry if I spelled that wrong) is the narrator.
Also, there is a 2-parter on changing and cleaning the guitar also by Taylor here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbsCnV2XvdM&feature=related
I watched both of these and am going to change my strings tomorrow - 1st time I'm going to do it so wish me luck......
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Thanks for posting that video.
I've been going by the pdf provided by the Taylor website, which works, but it's nice to see the process in action.
Here's the instructions I've been using:
http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/features/tunersandstrings/05_steel_string.pdf
:)
-K
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one thing worth noting
check with the string manufacturer to be sure that precutting the end of the strings (wound) will not affect them
round core strings such as DR sunbeams or NewTones & others (Rohrbacher titanium strings come to mind),
will have a tendency to 'unwind' or recoil on the wound strings if the ends are cut before being tuned to pitch
on these, one should install them, tune to pitch, stretch & retune until the tuning stabilizes & then cut off the excess
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I've seen the video before and gave it a try. Ended up going back to the way I've done it since the '60s. Mostly because it's easier for me since that's the way I've always done it.
I have to admit the Taylor way IS a lot neater looking...
;)
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Use their method and have become proficient at changing strings...............for everyone else it seems. ;D
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That's pretty cool, never tried cutting to length using that approach.
What was that tool? I have that stupid plastic peg winder. I think I have a similar electric tool, but it would be that attachment for the tuners.....
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That's pretty cool, never tried cutting to length using that approach.
What was that tool? I have that stupid plastic peg winder. I think I have a similar electric tool, but it would be that attachment for the tuners.....
You can buy them at Stewart MacDonald: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Accessories/Stringwinders,_bridge_pin_pullers/Zap-It_EZ-Winder.html (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Accessories/Stringwinders,_bridge_pin_pullers/Zap-It_EZ-Winder.html)
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That's pretty cool, never tried cutting to length using that approach.
What was that tool? I have that stupid plastic peg winder. I think I have a similar electric tool, but it would be that attachment for the tuners.....
You can buy them at Stewart MacDonald: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Accessories/Stringwinders,_bridge_pin_pullers/Zap-It_EZ-Winder.html (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Accessories/Stringwinders,_bridge_pin_pullers/Zap-It_EZ-Winder.html)
Awesome, thanks.
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one thing worth noting
check with the string manufacturer to be sure that precutting the end of the strings (wound) will not affect them
round core strings such as DR sunbeams or NewTones & others (Rohrbacher titanium strings come to mind),
will have a tendency to 'unwind' or recoil on the wound strings if the ends are cut before being tuned to pitch
on these, one should install them, tune to pitch, stretch & retune until the tuning stabilizes & then cut off the excess
+1 here. I lost 3 sets of strings that unwound on me using the "Taylor Method". I still use the Taylor way with Martin, John Pearse, and Elixers; however, I am very careful with strings I have not used before.
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Ever since I watched the Taylor video on changing strings, it's the way I've been doing it. I bought a Black & Decker battery operated screwdriver which revolves slowly (so no problems with winding too tightly too quickly), and I got the Dunlop string winder (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dunlop-turbotune-string-winder/368700000307000) to use with it (it comes apart into two pieces and you only use the one piece in the screwdriver). These used to be available in either black or white, but now all I've seen are the glow-in-the-dark models.
The screwdriver comes in handy to use for other household jobs, and the string winder is in my case and can be used alone, too. :)
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I was slow to change to the Taylor system and insisted on doing my old way. Then I tried it. I have never looked back. Good advice on the potential issues with non-Elixir strings. The electric screwdriver/StewMac peg "socket" system works really well too, and studies show using the system will add an average of 5-10 minutes to your practice time per string change.... :D
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Thanks for the post Bo1142. I remember seeing this a few years ago, but I forgot it as fast I found it. I think I will make an effort to try this method the next string change. After all, those studies eluded to by Jim indicate more practice time ;). Those who know me will tell you it would possibly assist me in my playing ability.
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It actually does increase practice time after! I used to change strings then take a break because my wrist was killing me(old motorcycle injury), but with the tool and that method, I'll sit and play for another 30-45 minutes after.
Boone
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I always did the under and over method for years, now i use the Taylor method on nearly all restrings, and i do alot of them not just my own guitars but the ones i service and set up as well.
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The Taylor approach made it a lot easier and cleaner, so to speak, for me to change strings. Once in a while I'll not be paying attention and cut off a string too short, thinking I was at the next lower peg, but that would come under the "operator error" category of mishaps.
Terry
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The Taylor approach made it a lot easier and cleaner, so to speak, for me to change strings. Once in a while I'll not be paying attention and cut off a string too short, thinking I was at the next lower peg, but that would come under the "operator error" category of mishaps.
Terry
I did this for the very first time a couple weeks ago, cutting the A string off at its peg.
Oh, the horror.
Fortunately, Stringsandbeyond.com (where I buy my strings) came through for me, quickly shipping out a replacement without charging me extra-bextra for postage. Whew.
~ S.
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The only reason I do not do the over/under is it is a bit more difficult to undo when doing a string change. With a normal "wrap and stab" (the hole, not the finger ;) ), string changes are faster. Not that I am in a hurry, but it is nice not to fuss over the headstock. One real side advantage I've also found is if one breaks a string when live, it's easy to yank that flotsome off in 0.634 seconds. And yes, this does occur, and for that I stick to just the regular wrapping method ...which BTW never slips on me.
Edward
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That's pretty cool, never tried cutting to length using that approach.
What was that tool? I have that stupid plastic peg winder. I think I have a similar electric tool, but it would be that attachment for the tuners.....
ebick, did you order one of the Stew Mac peg winders? If not, I have a white Dean Markley Turbo Tune (http://www.deanmarkley.com/Accessories/TurboTune.shtml) which was given to me free of charge from a Sam Ash employee when I was looking for it. It will also serve as a regular (manual) string winder if you are away from any power tools. ;) Now they are made by Planet Waves and come in the glow-in-the-dark green. I'd be happy to send you the Dean Markley white one as I've since bought a couple of the glow-in-the-dark ones. Please let me know. I use mine with a Black & Decker cordless screwdriver (and the screwdriver has paid for itself for multiple purposes as it's quick and easy to grab). The nice thing about the B&D screwdriver is that it's slow enough so there's no problem having the strings get wound too tightly. I no longer abhor string changes. ;D
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Last week I took off some relatively new Elixirs to try some JP's, and I wasn't paying close attention and cut the D string to the low E length. >:(
But, since I had used the Taylor method when putting on the Elixirs, I was able to salvage that D and put it back on. So far it is holding, I worried that it might break.
-K
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I thought I had seen a different Taylor video that showed a similar method but with one significant difference: for the B string, the guy left it a little bit longer so that it wrapped a turn or two more around the post. The idea was to get the last wrap to avoid the edge of the hole in the post, which causes the infamous B string frequent breakage issue. But I forget the details or even whether it was indeed a Taylor video...
Anyone know anything about that "special handling" of the B string?
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I have not heard of it, but I habitually leave both the 1st and 2nd strings longer by about 1/2" or so just to get another wind or two on the post. OCD issues aside, maybe it really does help retain flexibility. I bought a cordless drill, not a screwdriver, for changing strings. This is not for the faint of heart, because the string winding goes REALLY fast. It requires some finesse (and I have to stay focused), but string changes here are pretty close to Indy 500 pit speed. Like in under two minutes if I have to...... And just to quell the possible responses to this outlandish claim-that is string change, not string tune. Tuning is not the same as changing.....
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I thought I had seen a different Taylor video that showed a similar method but with one significant difference: for the B string, the guy left it a little bit longer so that it wrapped a turn or two more around the post. The idea was to get the last wrap to avoid the edge of the hole in the post, which causes the infamous B string frequent breakage issue. But I forget the details or even whether it was indeed a Taylor video...
Anyone know anything about that "special handling" of the B string?
That's in the second video of the two part series referenced earlier. Mentions slightly different procedure for G string as well as the B & high E. From roughly 2:15 to 3:20 in the video link below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKwasgm1Y3g&feature=youtube_gdata_player (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKwasgm1Y3g&feature=youtube_gdata_player)
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I like the taylor method of string changing.
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Has anyone else experienced problems winding the high E string with an automatic screwdriver like he's using in the Taylor video? I have the same screwdriver and crank but my high E string just wants to come right out of the hole before it even winds 1/2 turn. Any suggestions? :(
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Yup. What is happening is the ball end is slipping down under the bridge pin and it pops out as the string winds. Be sure you have the ball end in it's correct position up against the bridge plate, then sort of loop the string over and above the fingers/thumb of your non-string-winder hand to keep some tension on it while you start the winding process. It is a little tricky and it would be easier with three hands, but is is do-able. I have never described this, but the string comes from the bridge, under the palm side of the little finger, over the top (non palm side) of my ring, middle, and index fingers, and under the palm side of my thumb. Simply rotate your wrist and/or spread your fingers and you can control the string tension easily while you manage the string winder (this is a lot simpler to do than describe). If you can position the guitar so it is secure then that is one less task to manage while you are concentrating on the string. My work bench is waist high and I hold the guitar still with the peg head against my tummy and the bottom end of the guitar braced against a pad on the other end. I reckon after you have done hundreds of string changes, it is distilled to the fundamentals. This is how I do it.
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Before the Zap-It(to my knowledge the first screwdriver attachment),my partner and I took a regular winder,cut off the socket,cut off a cheap short 1/4' extension-heated it- melted a hole in the winder socket-and glued them together. Never thought of trying to patent or market it.Circa 1995. Oh well.
Steve
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I use the over/under method and I never cut the stings until after I have wound them. The thing I do like about the "Taylor method" is that the strings wind up the post. when I retring, the strings usually coil down the post. However, I always get a good coil, and the strings are "locked" in place.
Do you think it makes a difference if the strings string coil up or down the post? Also, how many coils is considered about right? I try to get the string to wind around the post 3-4 times on the wound strings and 4-5 times on the unwound strings.
Jim
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The strings always wind toward the peghead.To my point of view that's down. With guitars w/little angle to the peghead, the extra wraps insure the strings break cleanly @ the nut, aka string trees on Strats.Too many wraps with a poorly made nut(slots too deep) pinching and tuning issues often arise.
Steve
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I've used the Taylor method for years with hex core strings. Works great and never had a problem. With round core strings, DR Rare, Pyramid, Newtone MCs etc, You do need to modify the procedure a little.
Instead of cutting the wound strings at the next tuning peg, bend the string at a 90 degree angle where you would normaly cut. When installing the string in the post, just bring the bend flush with the hole at a 90 degree angle. BTW, I usually add one more bend to the excess part of the string. This ensures that the winding does not loosen from the core causing problems with tuning, intonation, dead strings etc. Round cores, without the hex, does not give the winding a sharp edge to cut into to hold the winding in place. The bend holds it in place. Once the string is up to tension, it's safe to cut it.
I've only had problems with round cores once and that was early on when I started using them and forgot to do the bend. Has worked for me for the past three years using roundcores exclusively. I have never had tuning or intonation problems with rounds and believe most complaints about them arise from improper installation methods.
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Just a question about using the Taylor method with a guitar with under saddle pick up. In the video Rob mentions that removing all of the strings at the same time can cause a problem for the pick up. He suggests removing tension slowly. I called Taylor and they said since I have a CE model that I should continue to replace strings one at a time. I would love to do a little clean up on the fretboard and much easier if all strings off at once.
Does anyone with a CE model use the Taylor method, and if so, have you had any problems or can you provide any advice or tips to be sure to not damage pick up.
thanks
Peter
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This is too funny! This is the video that taught me how to change strings well before I even dreamnt about owning a Taylor. I do 1 string at a time which seems to be the revised way Taylor is doing strings now unless I am going to clean the finger board.
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IMO...
I looked at the Taylor video and my reaction was, why would I do that? I see no advantage to it, only disadvantage.
I've been stringing guitars for more years than I care to mention and there can be NO issues with stringing the guitar with the string and, after pulling them up to pitch, clipping off the excess. Clipping it first can cause unraveling as noted on some strings AND a possibility of cutting it to the wrong length. That's "operator error?" Sure, but why not eliminate the possibility completely?
The string winds DOWN toward the peg head to ensure decent break across the nut. Also, the minimum amount of string on the peg needed to provide holding and downbearing on the nut provides better tuning stability. The more turns of string on the peg, the more time it takes for tuning to settle.
Single string or all at once? Whatever you want to do. It doesn't matter to the instrument OTHER than the fact that if you remove them all at once, tuning stability will take a bit longer as the neck totally relaxes and then has to curve again when the strings are brought up to pitch. If you are in a hurry for stability, do it one at a time. If you can wait an hour before it has to play on stage or wherever, then all at once will be fine.
Again, the above is MY OPINION based on a lot of years of doing this on steel and nylon stringed guitars. But it is just an opinion.
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I think it's pretty cool and have been using it with my Taylors, but they stay in tune great even with my normal method. I do one string at a time unless I'm cleaning.
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thanks for the feedback. I figure that they have to all come off for any major cleaning or repair work. Just didn't want to create an issue with pick up.
thanks
Peter