Unofficial Taylor Guitar Forum - UTGF
Taylor Acoustic & Electric Guitars => Taylor Acoustic & Electric Guitars => Topic started by: Socks on October 04, 2021, 02:10:22 PM
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I have a 1978 Lemon Grove 510 which I've owned and babied since ~1980. I've recently been playing some new taylors in the local shop and feel that they play quite a bit easier than my old faithful. I just took it to a local (reputable) luthier to get his recommendation who advised 3 repairs. Having only had 1 repair early in it's history (small humidity crack on top repaired with cleat in the early '80's) I'm nervous as a cat about anything which could screw up this great instrument and would appreciate opinions.
he recommended: 1) complete refretting. Although no major grooves, they do exhibit rather flat surfaces, especially in first 7 frets.
2) Remake bone nut. Luthier pointed out that "A" string groove is unproportionately close to the "D" string (funny, I never noticed until he pointed it out) and also wanted to create more break on the string over the nut. ("G" and "E" string slightly dull and subject to buzz when lower to alternate tuning)
3) Suggest to shave bridge (top surface without removing), again to create more of a "break" in those strings.
I'm flying on faith here as I've never had anything done to this extent before. Help put my mind at ease!
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Socks, you don't say where you are located, which hinders our ability to suggest a local qualified tech. And without some pictures and measurements, we are further hampered.
1) Complete re-fretting is probably not called for. When there is fret wear you can usually get away with 2-3 cycles of dressing and re-crowning before outright replacement. Most often people will replace only the first five or seven frets which receive most of the wear and grooves. It is also not unusual to have fairly flat fret surfaces when they have been leveled but not properly re-crowned.
3) Shaving the bridge down scares me. Break angle over the saddle is a debated topic as to how important it really is, and shaving down the bridge is major -- and irreversible -- surgery. Not something to be taken lightly.
For something like a classic Lemon Grove guitar, my inclination is to send it back to Taylor and let them tell you exactly what it really needs. No one knows better than the Mother Ship. Yes there will be shipping involved, which is expensive and risky these days, but it might be worth it. The second best option is take it to your nearest Gold or Platinum certified Taylor tech. Candidly it sounds like your luthier / tech is fishing for work that may not be needed. You might only need a good setup by a qualified tech, which could include a new nut.
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Thanks for the quick response. I'm in Hickory, NC which is between Charlotte and Asheville. Any suggested luthier would be greatly appreciated.
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Agreed with just a fret leveling and re-radius. It will make it play nicely.
Yes, nuts and saddles wear out.
The saddle will just pull out of the bridge. So no big deal to change it.
I just buy new ones as they drop in with no mods at all.
I prefer bone because it lasts longer than Micarta/tusq.
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Hey there Socks,
Glad you checked in: so hold the phone right there, sir, just pause and step away from that luthier for a moment!
1. I have zero idea about his skills, but anyone who recommends a bridge be shaved on a Taylor does not know about Taylors. So even if --if-- he is genuinely good, I'd absolutely not take it to this guy ...no way for me, period! Taylors have a bolt-on neck. And even with the glued fingerboard extension, a neck reset to achieve proper string geometry --and thus break angle-- is what you need for your classic, and it is not a "bad" job for someone who genuinely knows his stuff. You need someone who has done this before, a skilled tech who knows not only proper glue work, but who also knows these pre-NT Taylors.
By the way, are you certain he meant shave the "bridge" and not "saddle" ...this is a big difference and a huge deal here. Nevertheless, it sounds like a neck reset may give you that superb playability that is so common with current Taylors. But I don't have eyes on it, so take it to a guy who knows these pre-NT guitars.
2. A complete refret is not unheard of in a well-played guit. I have an 08 that I had refretted recently because it is my go-to guit for so much; it is not a big deal at all IF you have a genuinely good tech to do it. That said, since you have no divots and the frets are low, it sounds more like a personal choice for you: if you're ok with how it plays now, keep the frets. Yes, get a good level, crown, polish and it's like a good tune up for your fretboard; you'll like the feel and playability if you like how it is right now. But if your frets are really low from wear, don't be scared off by the prospect of a refret as a quality job can breathe new life in a guitar you already love. Moreover, you can choose whatever fret size you like at this juncture. Consider, too, Jescar wire which is harder than nickel silver (and not as hard as stainless steel), and you'll never have to refret it again, that means never. It costs a bit more than nickel silver but worth every penny, IMO. Again, these are options more than mandates so don't think that you need to do a refret by any means.
3. A new nut is common with a guitar played often. I had a nut replaced on an LP that is my go-to guit ...no drama involved. If you're considering a level/crown or a refret this is an excellent time for a new nut.
Same rule applies for whatever work you choose to have done: make sure this is a genuinely skilled tech. Ask to see his other fret work and he should be forthcoming. No balking. No resting on any laurels. Moreover, he should be accommodating to you and your specific playing style; any hint of being dismissive since he "knows best" is a "thank you for your time" moment and turn and go! Seriously, walk away. Truly good techs work with the player and his personal playing style as there is no such thing as his "expertise" that determines what is right. The genuine craftsmen know this and will work with you to achieve what you desire.
Hope that gives you some food for thought. Glad you've got a guitar you love this much ....kudos to you for keeping the gems in life!
Edward
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Simple advice:
Call Taylor Customer Service. Ask for repair tech recommendations in your area.
Whatever you do, do NOT shave the bridge! As Edward mentioned, a proper neck set is the way to achieve best tone and playability.
Lots of folks are not quite the techs they believe themselves... Don't devalue your instrument!
A GOOD taylor trained tech will dial your baby in!
Best on the search for a great tech
Paul
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Again, thanks all for you're very helpful advice. Not having any experience in this matter makes me realize how important this forum is. I will call taylor to see their recommendations, although I'm very hesitant to ship it across country for their service. Appreciate it!
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I get the reluctance to ship -- this is NOT an easily replaceable guitar in the event that the worst happens. It should be feasible to find a Taylor-certified tech within reasonable driving distance in NC. Edward echoed a lot of thoughts that I also had but did not take the time to type. Regarding this particular luthier, DANGER WILL ROBINSON!! :o
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... although I'm very hesitant to ship it across country for their service. Appreciate it!
No need to ship it to home base. When you call Taylor, ask them for the Authorized techs in your zipcode. Depending on where you live, it may or may not be convenient, but to be listed in their database means they have the specific know-how to do a proper neck reset, especially with the fretboard extension. That said, still get a feel for the particular guy who will be doing the job. Chime back in with results! :)
Edward
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What Edward said!
Lemme echo Edward. That is the drill.
Try to meet the tech or at least talk. Ask for references if you are less than confident!
Better to walk away than regret a bad decision. This is a real golden oldie.
Get a Taylor trained Pro
Cheers
Paul
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One more thing…. Do make sure you stabilize your guitar and case at 45% relative humidity for three or four weeks before you have any work done. That's what Taylor wouldmdo if you were to take it there. They figured out how to dial things in but they can't Get them there if the humidity is wrong.
Have fun
Paul