How to make my guitar play like it has a capo

[Eclimax13]

Hi.  While using a capo on the 2nd fret, I couldn't help but notice how much easier the guitar was to play at all the frets below.  Also no fret buzz was present.  So can I get my 814ce setup in such a way as to allow it to feel like it does with the capo on?

[ebick]

I'm not really sure that I understand, but first of all, are you saying your 814 has fret buzz when not using a capo?

[Eclimax13]

No.  I want to guitar to have the feeling of having a capo on it.  As in the strings are much closer to the fretboard. 

[ebick]

well, ya lost me.....

You're talking about two different things. 

When you are speaking about "the  strings close to the fretboard", you are talking about the action.  The action, and everything else, on my 814, right out o fthe box was perfect for me; no setup required.  If you feel that it is too high on yours, then I would find a good, local, trust-worthy luthier who can perform a setup and adjust the action for you.

The capo is about pitch change or transposition.  It really doesn't speak to the action of the guitar.  If you play an open Emajor-chord, while capo'd on the 3rd fret, you are in fact playing a G Maj chord.

[michaelw]

hi eclimax,
i'm guessing that what you may  be doing is tuning the guitar down one full step
(to DGCFAd) & then putting a capo on 2 to bring it back up to concert pitch (EADGBe)

chances are in order to get the action as low as you would like it to be without buzzing,
depending on how you play, the strings you use & to maintain adequate saddle height,
you may  need to have the neck reset to specs that make the 'uncapoed' action more
to your liking, because if everything else is correct (action at the nut, neck relief & angle)
usually what one can expect by lowering the saddle is 1/64" lower action at the 12th fret
for every 1/32" taken off ... i've seen some pics of improperly 'set-up' guitars to where
the hi e end of the saddle is below the bridge slot , so it's important the guitar is looked
at by someone that is familiar & comfortable with, & has performed resets on, Taylor NT necks

a call to Taylor's customer service would give you some options in finding an authorized repair
center/tech close to your location & if  the neck angle is correct at this time (to factory specs),
i would not  expect the reset to be covered under warranty, as you desire a 'custom' set-up

[S MS Picker]

I believe you're wanting it to play at the first 3 frets un-capoed like it does capoed. It can be made to play very close to capoed(is capoed a word?) in the hands of a good tech. It requires lowering the strings in the slots on the nut. It also requires a properly relieved neck. A string slot cut .0005" too deep can be the difference in liquid action and rattling on the first fret. I know, I've trashed my share of nuts, and every once in a great while still go too deep. It's a painstaking adjustment w/a steep learning curve. Don't try it yourself without a pocketfull on extra nuts.
Steve

[BigSkyTaylorPlayer]

Not sure how long you've been playing Taylors but the action they set does seem a bit high to me as well.  I took my 516 to a shop and they did a bit of work on the frets and such but said they set the action at factory specs and when I got it back it still seemed high.  I noticed the Mini is the same way - the Taylor way.....

In the end I just made myself get used to the action as set by Taylor.  I figured it was something I just needed to get used to and thru more practice I do not seem to notice it as much.

That said, I have been playing in open D tuning lately and tonight I dug up an old Dave Mason tune that's in open E.  I don't like to tune my guitar to open E so while in open D I capo'd at the 2nd fret and it was nice to have such low action.  When I tuned back to standard I noticed the difference.

I would take it into the shop and ask them to take a look and just make sure you don't have something going on that needs to be adjusted.  You can discuss with the tech and they could probably adjust the action down if you'd like.  Check out the Taylor website - they have a section on dealers and it's how I found the repair shop near me (and a bunch of new Taylors to try out    ).

[Eclimax13]

Steve, you are correct as far as what I'm trying to accomplish.  I'm not sure if everyone else was thinking too hard about what I was trying to say, or it just sounded great in my head and confusing to the rest of the world.  I've never had an acoustic setup so this is why I was asking before going further.  Thank you.

[S MS Picker]

I agree w/ TP 516. I do a full set-up on every one I buy. The only exception being the "99 414 I sent back to Taylor for a neck re-set. The tech that did it, knows his /her stuff. The "factory specs " don't suit me at all.
Steve

[Eclimax13]

Not sure how long you've been playing Taylors but the action they set does seem a bit high to me as well.  I took my 516 to a shop and they did a bit of work on the frets and such but said they set the action at factory specs and when I got it back it still seemed high.  I noticed the Mini is the same way - the Taylor way.....

In the end I just made myself get used to the action as set by Taylor.  I figured it was something I just needed to get used to and thru more practice I do not seem to notice it as much.

That said, I have been playing in open D tuning lately and tonight I dug up an old Dave Mason tune that's in open E.  I don't like to tune my guitar to open E so while in open D I capo'd at the 2nd fret and it was nice to have such low action.  When I tuned back to standard I noticed the difference.

I would take it into the shop and ask them to take a look and just make sure you don't have something going on that needs to be adjusted.  You can discuss with the tech and they could probably adjust the action down if you'd like.  Check out the Taylor website - they have a section on dealers and it's how I found the repair shop near me (and a bunch of new Taylors to try out    ).

This is what I was after.

[S MS Picker]

When you take to a shop, ask to play an electric that they've set up w/10's. If they say they can't do it on your Taylor,thank them and take it elsewhere. Action at the nut is as critical as the saddle for a great playing guitar.I often cut my saddles on a 1" smaller radius to avoid doing fret work. It all depends on the guitar and the player.
Steve

[sachi]

Like others, I figured out that the action at the nut was a bit high. I took it to a tech who lowered the nut slot(s) a bit and that took care of it.

Taylors are set up well from the factory, for the most part, but that does not mean that a setup can't improve on it!

[Maynard9089]

I received my new 414 last Thursday and dropped it off Tuesday with my tech to have it gone over. He was going to do some work on the 15th fret and up as well as lower the action a bit. The guitar played so much nicer than my Fender but I trust this guy and it was what he suggested. I miss it dearly.

[beachbum205]

You might also consider looking for a short scale guitar as an option.  That's what putting a on a capo does, in effect.  I know that doesn't solve your issue with this guitar, but it is something you should try just for fun.  With a short scale, (or a capo) there is less tension on the strings and they are much easier to press down.

[Eclimax13]

Taking it in for a proper setup by a guy who has been to Taylor and trained with them.  He assures me he can make it as I described.