Taylor GT vs Academy 12e for playability

[Lonnie]

First of all thanks for staying with me as I narrow my choices down for the last time.

After much deliberation and procrastination I was pretty set on purchasing an Academy 12e. We have a Martin 00016GT  and a GS Mini Koa Plu that we love. The 000-16 is a wonderful guitar but I often capo on 1st fret due to shoulder issues. I’m going to trade a DJr-10e for the Academy 22e (I can’t make peace with the 1 3/4” nut. The GT seems perfect except for the nut being a little wider.
11/16 .6875
23/32 .7185
3/4 .750

* I realize it’s subjective but who has a GT 23/32 and another model with an 11/16. Do you notice the difference. I’m imagining you don’t.  I can tell you that I feel and don’t enjoy  the 1 3/4
* Who has or has compared the Taylor GT with Taylor Academy 12e.  Is the 12E easier to play? Is it because of the body bevel or does it mater a great deal.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Lonnie

[Earl]

I'm one who can feel the difference between 1-11/16" and 1-3/4" most of the time and prefer the wider one for my 75% finger picked / 25% strummed use.  On a Taylor neck either nut width works for me, hence my 114ce and my former T5 classic.  But on a Martin neck I just cannot make it work.  I can play any Taylor neck for literally hours without any pain, but a 1-11/16" Martin MLO neck and my fretting hand kills me after 20 minutes and aches the rest of the day.  I have to be really careful when someone asks me to demo their Martin.  A few minutes and my left hand is done for the whole day.  That forced me to sell off the Martin guitars that we once owned (J-40, D-28, 000-16).

As for 1-23/32" on the GT versus 1-3/4" on others, I could not feel the difference in nut width on the GT during a brief test play in a store, but I have not spent real time with one.  The Urban Ash version was underwhelming to my ears.

The GT's have a different neck carve (I think) as do the GP's.  Hand feel is a complex combination of nut width, fret board radius, action, neck carve, rolled edges, fret height, and sunspots.  [OK maybe not the last one].  Given the dollar difference, the A12 prevails handily over the GT, and the arm bevel is a nice bonus.  I don't get hung up on laminated versus solid body woods anyway.  As long as the guitar top is solid wood -- and they are on ALL Taylor guitars -- then I'm good.  A12 for the win!

[Lonnie]

Earl, you’re a saint. Saint Earl, has a ring.

That’s just the info I was hoping for! Back to my original thought of the Academy. Sincerely appreciate it sir!

[Frettingflyer]

I can tell you as someone who has had shoulder issues that the bevel does make a difference. If you like the 1 11/16” nut width I don’t think you can go too wrong with the A12 series. Ours is primarily for my son’s use, but I am always really surprised when I pick it up by the sound and of course it feels like a Taylor.
Enjoy and be sure to post a NGD and pics!

[Lonnie]

Thanks so much for your perspective it definitely helps and I certainly will post pics. The next post on the 12e will be string suggestions.

[Earl]

Earl, you’re a saint.

No has has EVER called me that before - this is a first.     It's a lot to live up to for the rest of the week.  I'm glad to help, such as it was, and happy buying.

I am used to playing my carbon fiber guitars, several of which have arm bevels and other contours that cannot be readily done in wood.  It almost annoys me when playing a couple that have rather sharp body edges that dig into my forearm.  Once becoming used to the comfort of a bevel it is easy to get spoiled.

[Lonnie]

Well, my not so close Guitar Center was supposed to get an Taylor Academy 12E but it wasn’t on their delivery truck.  The did have several GT’s though. I figured I’d make the trek and check them out. Would be my luck when the Academy’s came in the GTs would be gone.

I’m glad I did check them out. I know this can be subjective and I certainly wouldn’t want to upset any GT lovers…. They had 4 in the acoustic room and I played two of them. I didn’t like them at all. For one think the action was REALLY high which can obviously be lowered but I was a little surprised at how high they were. The sound was, okay. I felt like my GS Mini Koa Plus had a little better all the way around and a little less bright. Lastly, the frets sides were sharp. Like really slice you finger sharp. It just surprised me they’d let them get out like that.
Who knows, maybe I found two bad eggs. They’re supposed to call me when an Academy comes in.

[Earl]

Your experience tracks with mine -- underwhelmed by the GT.  It was nice and nicely built, but did not wow me, especially for the price.  No disrespect intended for those who are fans.  I played the Urban Ash model, but on two different occasions in two different stores.  Same conclusion both times.  I'd hold out for the A12e to come in before pulling the trigger on a purchase.  It would be nice if you could eventually make an A/B comparison, but you'll likely know if the A12 "fits" once you play it.

As for the high action and sprouting frets, Guitar Center is not known for their stellar care of instruments or expert techs.  That varies from store to store, but careful humidity control is not universal across all stores.  You actually describe two different symptoms - high action usually means a wet, swollen guitar.  Fret sprout means a very dry guitar.  In theory both could happen.  The guitar got very dry in transit, and then they tried remedial humidification, going too far.  Sometimes the fret board and neck wood don't quite keep up.

[Frettingflyer]

I second everything Earl said. Especially about Guitar center, they are very hit or miss in care of the instruments. You will have no problem finding another GT or GS mini Koa + if you decide they fit better than the A12. Take your time and find what fits you.

[Lonnie]

Appreciate your and Earls knowledge. I ended up falling in love with the Academy a made a new post a little while ago. Thanks again gentlemen.