Taylor 414ce String Gauge Question

[414dan]

I am an experienced guitarist and own several US made solid wood guitars.  I need good advice about my Taylor 414ce, which is my preferred acoustic for its wonderful sound, comfortable shape and sweet neck feel. I had it set up with low action when it was new in March 2013. It is so low that it sounds great and plays wonderfully, except that there is an obvious fret buzz in the first position on the high "e" string. I don't want to change the neck adjustment if I can help it, and it seems that just a slight increase in string gauge would do the trick.  I thought a good choice would be a light-medium.  Presently it has D'Addario EXP light gauge with 12-16-24-32-42-53 sizes.  The Martin M545 Light-Medium set is .0125 .0165 .0255 .0335 .0435 .0550, which should increase the relief just enough to remove that buzz.  It seems that given the set up is low and the neck presently has no relief, that this should work well as long as the guitar can structurally withstand the slight increase in pull.  Any thoughts?  Your input is greatly appreciated.  I wouldn't mind a bit of increase in volume, either.  I play in nursing homes unplugged, so I could use a little more support for my voice.  Thanks for your help!

[dangrunloh]

 No problem with string pull.  Don't know if it will fix your problem.  I've played that set on my 414.  I liked them and the light-med Elixer PB's which have maybe slightly more pull.  Some posters have reported using full mediums on the GA size with no problems.  Taylor doesn't forbid it and it does not void your warranty.

[414dan]

dangrunloh: Thanks for the great response.  I think I will give it a try then, and in small increments go from set to set, slowly increasing the gauge to no more than 13-56, tops.  I will start with 12-54.  I love the action and feel of this neck, with the wide fret board (having a big hand).  But I need to get that first position high "e" buzz reduced.  Thanks for your time and knowledge. dan

[sitedrifter]

I am a 1 year newbie to guitars but I love the mechanics of them and am trying to learn as much as possible about that part of the guitar. With that, I wonder if having a custom saddle would fix the buzzing. Raise the side of the high E  one or two thousands but the rest of the saddle remains the same. I am sure it could be done with shims at 1st then once you have it dialed in, get a custom saddle made. Same thing would go for the nut but that is a a little harder to deal with. Maybe I am way off and I apologize if I am, it is just and idea I had that seems like it would work.

[414dan]

I actually think that this would be the most technically correct way of fixing the issue. The saddle is somewhat low on the high strings-- I will give your excellent suggestion some serious consideration.  Thank you, Sitedrifter!

[S MS Picker]

Shimming is a viable option.
Get a roll of aluminum duct tape (I got mine at Wal-Mart years ago). Cut a piece, stick it to the bottom of your saddle,roll a socket (or something round and hard) on it to get a really flat stick w/no air, trim it flush. The tape I have is about .003 thick(per layer) when applied.
I shimmed dozens of saddles w/this method. There's no discernible change in sound IMHO.Just add a layer until the buzz stops.
Works great for nuts also, but extreme care is involved in removing the nut.
Steve

[414dan]

SM Picker: Thanks for the description of how to shim the saddle using duck tape.  What a good idea! I am hoping that the buzz in the high e, just in the first position, will be alleviated with the slight increase in string gauge.  After I have tried that, I will consider this excellent procedure you have described.  Take care!

[CodeBlueEMT]

 +1

 I learned something new today. Thanks. 

[stepchildusmc]

<--- putting duct tape on shopping list.
what a great idea!

[S MS Picker]

It MUST be metal duct tape they make aluminum and stainless. Stainless is quite expensive and harder to find.
Steve

[stepchildusmc]

the stainless is actually pretty easy to find. just check your local auto parts store... they all sell muffler tape to the rednecks !

[414dan]

Okay, Guys.  I did it right.  I took my guitar to Blackie Taylor, a well seasoned guitar repair tech and pedal steel player near my home in So Cal, and had him look at it.  He thought the neck was over-adjusted-- it was perfectly straight from the set up I asked for at Sam Ash when I bought it in March 2013.  He gave it some relief-- pretty much an average setting with a very slight forward curve of the fret board.  It is exactly the same as my 1976 Guild D55, which I bought new and have never had to have adjusted.  Then, he leveled the 2nd, 3rd and 4th frets a bit.  It now has more power when strumming chords and does not fret out in the first position as it was doing.  I love this guitar and I am even happier with it now. BTW-- I did put Med/Light Gauge Earthwood bronze strings on it (.12 -.54) and that works nicely, adding a bit more low end.  Really great for when I play unplugged at the nursing home where I perform twice a month.  Thanks for all the advice!

[etzeppy]

Shimming is a viable option.
Get a roll of aluminum duct tape (I got mine at Wal-Mart years ago). Cut a piece, stick it to the bottom of your saddle,roll a socket (or something round and hard) on it to get a really flat stick w/no air, trim it flush. The tape I have is about .003 thick(per layer) when applied.
I shimmed dozens of saddles w/this method. There's no discernible change in sound IMHO.Just add a layer until the buzz stops.
Works great for nuts also, but extreme care is involved in removing the nut.
Steve

Love that idea. I have a nut that needs a shim for slide use.

[GSMC Bob]

Okay, Guys.  I did it right.  I took my guitar to Blackie Taylor, a well seasoned guitar repair tech and pedal steel player near my home in So Cal, and had him look at it.  He thought the neck was over-adjusted-- it was perfectly straight from the set up I asked for at Sam Ash when I bought it in March 2013.  He gave it some relief-- pretty much an average setting with a very slight forward curve of the fret board.  It is exactly the same as my 1976 Guild D55, which I bought new and have never had to have adjusted.  Then, he leveled the 2nd, 3rd and 4th frets a bit.  It now has more power when strumming chords and does not fret out in the first position as it was doing.  I love this guitar and I am even happier with it now. BTW-- I did put Med/Light Gauge Earthwood bronze strings on it (.12 -.54) and that works nicely, adding a bit more low end.  Really great for when I play unplugged at the nursing home where I perform twice a month.  Thanks for all the advice!

I thought that increasing the neck relief through a heavier string gauge was a strange approach to begin with when a quick 1/8 of a turn or so of loosening the truss rod would get you there.  Relief should be adjusted to string tension and not vice-versa!